Archive for the ‘Fabric trauma’ Category

As I said before, we’re in the process of moving house…will probably be a few weeks yet but half the packing is done. First to be packed was the sewing stuff, then the books, then the clothes. Ah yes, the clothes. So many things blogged about, so many things put into the donate pile (or even chucked)…

It’s been commented on one of the blogs listed below that a number of bloggers make things then they never get seen again – some are wheeled out for Me Made May, but a lot of bloggers have a lot of output but seem to wear very little of what they make…I often wonder what happens to the clothes….

So of the things I’ve blogged about (that I remember), what made the cut to go to the new house?

Firstly, the black self drafted trousers get to stay.

The Miette skirt blogged about here, and the Christmas version. Because I find them useful, and they fit well. https://rantygobshyte.wordpress.com/2013/09/08/i-made-something-2/

The dress here was binned as it was just too tight across the chest but I made a version in a yellow bee print with an FBA and it made the cut https://rantygobshyte.wordpress.com/2013/03/24/stop-press/

This dress because it is so damn comfy https://rantygobshyte.wordpress.com/2013/02/09/sewing-mojo-back/

The Hawaiian dress because I don’t care if it’s wonky, I love it https://rantygobshyte.wordpress.com/2012/09/05/i-made-summat/

The ‘Horror of Satin II’ because it’s so obnoxious it deserves more outings https://rantygobshyte.wordpress.com/2012/07/01/busy/

Also (because I cba to link anymore), the goth Meringue, the black Taffy, the ladybird corset and the space dress…also a strawberry print dress based on the space dress pattern I didn’t get around to blogging. I think the purple leopardprint dress made it too, as did the red New Years Eve dress I probably didn’t blog about. Damn, I’m rubbish at this blogging lark!

Anyway, that leaves a lot of stuff that didn’t fit properly, or well enough for me to persevere with…

Next year I will aim for far less wadders. I’m looking at at least 50% which is rubbish. I’ve been sewing for ages, I should get it by now.

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Let’s rewind a bit. Last couple of things I’ve made, have been a bit of a disaster. Last one less so but still. In a fit of annoyance, I looked at clothes online. And saw some I liked. Have decided I do better making stuff *I* like, that’s a bit goth and so I wanted some goth friendly fabric. i.e. black, possibly lace, possibly a bit weird.

So today, I go to see the pervy fabric man at Milton Keynes market. Oh boy I wish it was payday….TOO MUCH PRETTY.

I bought sequins. Turquoise sequins. I was going to make a short tight dress. Then I got it home and realised it’s actually 60″ wide (I got 2 yards), so I reckon a full length mermaid dress because….well, look at it!

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I mean, LOOK. AT. IT. How fucking awesome is that shit? For £4/yard too. Win.

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I also found some odd snakeskin printy stuff. £2.50/yard. Yes please. Now, to make trousers or a skirt? Either way, pressing it is not likely to be an option 😀

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And lace. He refused to cut it because he only had 5 metres left. Mine for a tenner. And it’s stretchy. I can make me some proper goffick massive flappy sleeves with this, oh yes I can……….

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Meanwhile, my hair is bright orange. Bob thinks it should be purple. I’m pretty sure orange and purple make sludge brown, but we shall see……(if it goes tits I have some temp black…)

Lilly was spayed this week. She was a little tired the day of the op, but she seemed happy to snooze. Here’s a cute pic…..

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Oh, and I was sewing the other day, when I saw the first ladybird of the year climbing up my window (was indoors so has probably hibernated in my spare room) and it was a BLOODY HARLEQUIN!!! Disappointed.

I forget where I was with the ranting last week but I thought ‘sod it’ and went for Truffle Mk2 with some cheapo polka dot polycotton. Thing about polycotton – it BEHAVES!!!

This time – I cut standard pattern. Only alteration was half an inch at the hips on each back piece, and half an inch on the length to accommodate my squat butt. I also ignored the construction instructions and left the back seam till last. I got Bob to pin the back together and draw a line where it fit. Basically I took a small 1/2″ wedge out of the top of the centre back seam on either side. And I tried it on once the zip was done…fit pretty well, apart from a bit of baggy back. This was sorted by taking a small wedge out of the shoulders (I have sloping shoulders too)

And it was good. It fit, really quite well. Pleased with myself, I finished the neckline and hemmed the dress, adding a little lace trim. Came the evening, I showed it to Bob..WTF?

The arse rides up, there is still some bagging in the back, but if I pull my arms forward it’s tight so can’t take it in – AAARRGHHHH!!!!

I did wear it Friday night, I think it looked OK and was definitely wearable but just a little annoyed….will put a pic up at some point..

THis evening, I thought I’d redo the pinstripe fishtail skirt I cocked up last week. Cut the sides out, reinserted the zip, did all the gathering again, and it fit really well….(apart from a dodgy bit near the zip_…decided to press the seams, and side seams…and my iron melted the fabric!!! See mess below.

 

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It didn’t do that last week, and the iron was on the same setting!! Double AAARRGHHHH!!!!

I did get some comedy patterns last week from the Oxfam shop for 29p each though. I was somewhat taken with this, for some reason 😀

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In non sewing related stuff, I have some pictures of soil. I got to the allotment today, and planted some garlic, shallots and onions. In this darker bit of soil.

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I also dug this bit of soil, into which I will put pea plants.

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This is how it looked a fortnight ago, before I dug any soil

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Will I never learn?

I found a quite nice downloadable pattern on the Cloth Magazine website….

http://www.cloth.co.uk/blouse/download-vintage-blouse

Pretty, no? A little lacy for me but I was fascinated by the dart placement so bought some green gingham to make it less ‘girly’ Apart from my machine having shitfit with the darts (typically, as the stitching is in view for these), all seemed to go well. Then I tried it on..WAY too big above the bust, too tight on the bust and waist….will be alright if I lose a couple of inches from each. Gah. Is pretty too…

This weekend gone, I fancied making myself a nice simple item, something I could do in a day. Bob had also hinted he might like me in a polka dot dress so I thought a dress might be a nice thing to make. I had some spotty cotton, and plumped for the Colette Truffle dress. Despite the fact I apparently needed 3 yards for it, I managed to cut the pieces out of around 1.7 metres. Go me! Now, I measured the pattern pieces, adjusted the darts to allow for my humpy back and fat belly, added an inch to the waistline, all good. Checked the fit of the pattern before cutting out the fabric. Checked the fit of the fabric pieces after sewing darts (and staystitching, cos that’s one HUUUGE neckline right there!), measured before sewing together. By my calculations I had 3″ ease in the hips, 1.5″ in the bust and waist, making for a comfortable fit. It all went together lovely, the zip went in like a dream (yes, it really did!!!) and it looked beautiful. So I tried on the finished article.

Oh my days…it looked ace! Slightly baggy between waist and hips but that’s a common occurrence with me and not a major problem…then I turned to the side.

Crap.

Despite my wider and longer back darts, there was still excess fabric from my waist to my shoulders. And the gape!! Quasimodo could have worn it!!! Not to forget the massive wodge of fabric sitting around my waist.Ugh.

Slightly dejected, I gave up and went to bed.

Next day, I sucked it up and did a swayback adjustment, taking a 2″ wedge out of the skirt, and also a 2″ dart out of each back piece at the neck, as well as graduating the other back darts as they were too pointy.

And I tried it on again. Looked lovely from the front…felt around the back, no fabric…oooh… 😀

Looked in the mirror. WTF??? The zip sticks out and makes my arse look HUGE (seems I should have tapered that seam a little more but then it would be too tight, and there’s still massive gapeage round the back. Bear in mind I have a BIG back.

To console myself, I thought I’d make something gothy. I nice pinstripe fishtail skirt. I made a new skirt block, checked all the measurements repeatedly (especially as they were in that weird French Metric thing :D) and made the skirt part.

WTF? I have panniers where my hips should be, my hips are NOT that rounded – and the waist is too big, and the fishtail looks shit. To say I was massively disappointed and pissed off would be an understatement.

Which is why, this afternon I went to the Fabric Sale, picked up 3 metres of stretch cotton black and white polka dot fabric, 2 metres of stiff polycotton red and black polka dot fabric, and bought four patterns from the local Oxfam shop for 29p each – including a romper suit pattern. Yes, romper suit.

I will never learn….

*pics will come in time, when I’ve stopped smarting about the whole thing and my mutant figure!!*

There’s some good news on the blog…in fact, quite a bit..hurrah!!!

Meanwhile – see below. I dunno why I was so taken with this, but it was in the remnants bin at John Lewis, and there was just 1 metre of 44″ fabric….perfect for taming my nemesis, the Portrait Blouse, so I thought. Portrait here fyi http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2012/11/pink-haired-lady-with-sew-along-idea.html

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Meanwhile, I bought a New Look pattern last week, one that looked easy, minimum shaping etc as a way of getting some confidence back? Bob told me frilly + flowers = Frumpy. Pfft, well I like it, even if the fabric melted on my iron, and I spilled sauce down it. It’s even long enough that I dare go out in skinny jeans 😀 (Yes I look stoned, no I’m not but it’s the only pic that doesn’t have the cat’s litter trays in)

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Meanwhile, at the weekend I also went for a stint of ‘Let’s make shit up’ which always used to be my preferred method of sewing. Cue 2 out of the 5 metres of cheap red jersey I have, a 6 gore skirt with drapey bits on…hem STILL to long but cba to do anything about it right now….it will wait. Yes that is an elastic waist, no  can’t be bothered to case it, it’ll be hidden anyway…

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So..back to the Portrait blouse….cut the pattern out, with an extra 1/2″ at each side seam and lowered bottom of armhole by 1/2″ too. Also added 1/2″ to the 2″ I already lengthened it by..then..DISASTER!!! The back wouldn’t fit on the rest of the fabric – solved by cutting two pieces and seaming them together. It also meant I could add half an inch each side of the back so I could accommodate my back fat lats. As I also only had enough fabric to make the back in the original length, I added a ‘peplum’ of sorts….and of course it has a bias binding neck facing.

After trying it on (and playing with my new concealed zipper foot – oh the expense!!!) I also lengthened the front and back darts by an inch or so, and took a little more in at the centre back seam just above the waist (I have a serious swayback, people!) Still a little baggy around the waist, but much better, and a decent fit…see? (And yes, a sports bra does not show it to its best advantage!!)

And yes the floor needs hoovering – I’ve been busy, dammit!!!

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It is straight, honest!!

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Oh, and John Lewis still had some sale fabric left. Silver blurry abstract flowers, it says. Looks like leopardprint to me!!! Either way it is excellent but I have no idea what to make, except it should be a dress. I got 2 metres….

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Bob took a couple of pics of my calico toile from my boduce block. No.1 – the front.  I look pregnant, how lovely…not. seems to be a little baggy above the boobs and just under them too, though not as noticeable underneath. If I make a top from this pattern, I’d have a lower neckline anyway….any ideas how to fix?

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No. 2 – side shot – fits round arms, doesn’t ride up massively, seems OK

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No. 3 – the back. WTF? That’s a LOT of extra material – a sway back and sudden narrowing of my back means there’s a lot of extra fabric – I’m thinking I will just need to narrow the centre back piece for this, am I right?

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Okay. for the three people in the world who expressed an interest…. I just got Bob to take pics of the offending articles….oh and believe me when I say I am not nearly as shapeless as the pics make out…..honest!

Exhibit 1 – Portrait Mk1 – nice colour, nice fabric, dreadful fit. Looks fine till I attempt to move my arms, chest too tight, hips too tight….think I would need to cut it a size or two bigger and bring those tucks up higher…also bear in mind I lengthened this by a good 3 inches….

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And the back…yes I weight train lol – NOW do you see my problem?? 😀

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Exhibit 2 – Portrait Mk2 – made with the most evil fraying loose weaved fabric in the world, but perfect for an experiment (until I got a lump glued to my iron GRRRRR this shit cannot be pressed)

Added almost an inch per side, extended the shoulders slightly but made armhole bigger, shirred 4 rows at the narrowest part, the bit I ASSUMED would be the waistline. Er, no. To be fair, this version is infinitely more wearable, and I will probably wear it, it’s comfortable, only a little tight when I pull my shoulders and arms forward but the elasticated bit? Believe me when I say it is almost 2″ above my waist. And I’m short, and a bit shortwaisted….

Oh, and I haven’t done the neckline yet, was checking to see if it fit first. And yes, I hemmed the sleeves flat. Life is too short to hem them when the side seams are sewn up!

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It nips in – honest!!

And the beefy back shot…and no the back hem isn’t straight…

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In good news, I found my draft bodice block earlier – seems at some point I made one – now just need to trace it and try to make something sensible out of it. I’m quite into princess seam..and I have a pattern with them that fits a treat (apart from the waist being a little too high lol)

Been a bit ill over the weekend. Nowt serious, just an upset stomach, so yesterday, decided to attempt to do something simple to take my mind off it.

Bearing in mind I have very few tops, apart from t-shirts, thought I’d have a bash at the Portrait Blouse from Gertie’s book…

Looks simple enough – two pieces (I am NOT doing a neck facing, see previous posts) and I have a few ‘bits’ of fabric in my stash. Chose a drapeyish green that I found in a charity shop…was a metre and a half of 30″ wide so more than enough….

First, I looked at the sizing, picked an appropriate size, in this case, an 8, as I have a 38″ top bust measurement (39″ full) and 42″ hips (my waist is slightly larger but can be remedied). I also heeded previous reviews and cut it a little longer than the patter required…

Now, these measurements appear to correspond to a Big 4 size 16, which I normally cut. Couldn’t find actual garment measurement anywhere so measured the pattern pieces..all looked fine. I was also waaay too lazy to rethread the overlocker, so decided on French seams, just for my own amusement…

Soooo how did that work out for me?

Erm.

See pics below on my lumpy chickenwire dummy. It’s pretty much my size so….

Firstly, it was a bit tight. Tight around the bust, very tight around the back, and also very tight on the hips, but OK on the waist (??? given my waist is a hefty 33″ does not compute)

The sleeves are also too tight..I have beefy arms.

And WTF is that baggy bit below the bust?

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No, I didn’t get round to hemming it – it is now officially a toile….

And the back – HOW MUCH is that pulling on my back?

And yes, I have a sticky out arse…

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Notes for next time…..

Make pattern pieces an inch bigger either side (or reduce the tucks), drop the armhole bottom by about an inch….

Otherwise, it’s quite nice. Grrrr hate it when that happens…..

No time to do another one today, but if I get chance, next effort will be overlocked….

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I bought a pattern..the infamous ‘easy trousers’ pattern. I don’t normally ‘do’ Simplicity patterns, but this one caught my eye. Not sure why becayse mustard yellow and brown don’t really do it for me but I just wanted to make some trousers….

Then I decided I liked the skirt…and the jacket.

As it happens, I have some suiting type fabric I bought from a charity shop for £4. After measuing it, I have 6 metres, so I can make all 3!! Yay!!! The colour isn’t quite ‘me’, being a russetty burgundy type thing…

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Not that this pic helps in any way… 😀 Was going to start cutting out today but I’m having a clumsy day so will leave it awhile o_O

 

Meanwhile, lookie what arrived in the post yesterday! My birthday pressie to myself.  I need to make some more fitted clothes that also work as daywear, so I don’t go to work wearing the same crappy t shirts and knackered skirts….there was a resolution in there somewhere….

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I particularly like this (and I’d like it more if I could remember how to rotate the picture, yes I would, but I posted the pic from my phone…), though I would like it in a different shade of green, something a little brighter, perhaps

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I also like this, for reasons that escape me. I look DIRE in stuff that fastens to the side, but I want this in a dark red or bottle green. Hmmm. We shall see.

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This appears to be sideways. Hm. Anyhow, I mad this out of some mystery fabric I bought at Peterborough market. I initially made the long sleeved version, but it looked too frumpy, so I cut the sleeves down a bit. Had to topstitch the neckline due to weird lining not lying flat issues. I have neck issues 😀

The pic looks weird but it actually sits on my waist, instead of an inch above it – this may be down to me forgetting this when cutting out the pattern, but making the seam allowance a bit smaller so it sits right…

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Oh, and I got the zip looking reasonably pretty

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And from the outside – first time!

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Couple of days ago, I also decided to make this…I hate restrictive clothes and thought that as I have a wide back and big boobs, this would be perfect.

No.

More mystery fabric from the market here, slight stretch and lots of drape, but mainly much cheapness if it goes tits up….

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Here’s the (sideways) line drawing.

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Now, imagine the top of the sleeve near the shoulder…and having to cut at an angle of 45 degrees to make the armhole wider – yep. Make clothes for ‘fuller figured’ women, and forget they also have fuller arms – my arms were dragging the whole thing down which was very uncomfortable! Chopped a lump out and it fits much better. I like the shaping at the waist, as much as I bitched about all the darts!! 😀

 

This was where I had Buttonhole Trauma. The first was so bad I sewed a button over it. After looking for answers online, it seems I needed to set the stitch length a bit longer – the resulting buttonholes were …ok. 6 were good, 2 were iffy. I know it says 7 buttons on the pattern but I used teeny buttons, and yes the spacing is dodgy – it’s a design feature *whistles*

 

The neck facing was so awful and bulky I chopped it out and used twill tape instead. Remind me to NEVER do a neck facing again, unless it’s stitched to a lining. The one on my nice purple leopardprint dress has shredded in the wash and looks dreadful…have to keep poking it back into the neck grrrr

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Now..what to make with my new stuff?